Two Wheels, One Archipelago: Expert Tips for Biking Indonesia

This quote perfectly captures the spirit of Sergey (@Desed), a seasoned traveler who has spent years exploring the vast and diverse Indonesian archipelago on two wheels. Indonesia, the world's largest archipelagic nation, is often synonymous with Bali—but it’s so much more than that. With over 18,000 islands, 922 inhabited, and home to 1,700 ethnic groups speaking more than 700 languages, Indonesia offers a stunning blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. Volcanic origins have shaped much of its dramatic landscapes, making it a paradise not only for surfers but for all kinds of adventurers.

Sergey has traveled extensively across the islands—covering around 23,000 km beyond Bali—and shares his experiences with us in this interview.

Sergey: My name is Sergey. I’ve been living in Indonesia for three years now. During that time, I’ve traveled extensively across the country. Here’s a quick look at where I’ve been:

Total distance traveled outside of Bali: about 23,000 km.

Sergey: In Indonesia, large-capacity enduro bikes like the BMW GS 1250 are incredibly expensive—about 1 billion IDR, or $65,000. That’s just not feasible. But the main reason is practicality. I also use my bike for daily commuting, and sitting in traffic on a 600cc+ bike in 30°C heat is no fun—especially without proper riding gear.

I considered the Yamaha Tracer 900 GT, but only older 2017 models are available here. KTM and Royal Enfield face major service issues in Indonesia, which isn’t ideal given that I ride 20,000–30,000 km a year. The new Africa Twin costs 650 million IDR, and to be honest, its suspension is overkill for roads that are 99% asphalt.

That said, the type of bike isn’t everything. It’s about how you travel, how much time you have, and the experience you’re after. I originally rode all over on a standard Yamaha X-Max. Not ideal—especially the rear suspension—but after some upgrades, it became fairly comfortable for solo trips. With a passenger, though, 300cc just isn’t enough.

Sergey: Upgrades make a big difference. The X-ADV’s engine is solid—70 Nm torque and 55 hp is plenty—but other aspects needed work.

Sergey: Routine maintenance is crucial—oil, filters, spark plugs, and brake pads must be in good shape. If your trip is over 2,000 km, install new tires before you go. Never wait until they’re worn out; it’s dangerous.

I recommend servicing only at official dealerships—Yamaha and Honda have locations everywhere.Also, don’t travel on a bike without ABS. It’s not just about riding skill. And definitely install extra lighting for night travel.

Sergey: I used to cycle a lot. But once I arrived in Southeast Asia, I switched to motorbikes—and things took off from there. I’ve never been drawn to mass tourism. Seeing crowds taking the same photo of something unremarkable just isn’t my thing.

Sergey: So far, not too many places. I’ve circled Sri Lanka three times and explored all the mountains there. I’ve ridden from Phuket to Bangkok in Thailand. This winter, I plan to cover northern Thailand and maybe take trips to other countries.

Indonesia is where I’ve done most of my riding. The only areas left are some small islands with minimal infrastructure—like the Moluccas and Papua. I also want to return to Sumatra and finish exploring Sulawesi and Timor (my last attempt was interrupted by a breakdown).

Sergey: Honestly, it’s hard to pick just ten. I could point anywhere on Google Maps and find a 10/10 spot with incredible scenery within 50–100 km. But here are a few standouts:

Aceh, Sumatra – Towering 3,000m mountains, stunning roads, absolutely beautiful.

Toraja (Rantepao), Sulawesi – A cultural gem with amazing roads and villages.

East Java – Volcanic landscapes like Bromo are breathtaking, especially if you know the right routes.

Bajawa, Flores – Endless serpentines, volcanoes, hot springs—pure magic.

Larantuka, Flores – Like stepping into the Alor Islands; volcanic islets dotting the sea.

All of Flores – The ideal island for motorcycle travel.

West Sumatra – Kilometers of winding oceanfront roads, nature reserves, surf spots without a soul in sight.

Lake Toba, Sumatra – Just look it up—you’ll see why.

Mount Tambora & Komodo Islands – Epic nature and adventure.

Raja Ampat & Alor – Still on my bucket list, but definitely worth it.

And if you’re into urban exploration, I recommend checking out the river-side slums around Jakarta for a different kind of adventure.

Sergey: Anyone who’s been to Bali knows that despite its popularity, the island struggles with infrastructure. Traveling just 30–40 km can take two hours due to traffic jams, and by the time you arrive, you’re already stressed out. Then, it’s endless payments—5k for parking, 50k–150k for waterfalls. It’s not about the money, it’s the constant paywall experience that gets frustrating. In some places, like Kintamani, they even charge 50k just to enter the town.

Many tourist spots are overcrowded. You spend half the day getting there, snap a photo, and head back—no joy in the journey. And in travel, the journey is 95% of the experience. That’s what truly matters.

On other islands, it’s a different story. There’s a wider variety of destinations, better quality, and entrance fees rarely exceed 15k IDR—unless you’re entering a national park. Bali does have some truly unique gems, like Nusa Penida, the dramatic Bukit limestone cliffs, and the Batur caldera (though much of that lava field has been damaged by brickmaking in recent years).

The idea that Bali is unmatched in terms of natural attractions per square kilometer is a myth. Its uniqueness lies in its culture, not its natural sites—most of which have been commercialized.

If you’re after real WOW experiences, start with East Java, especially around Malang. And don’t stop at Mount Ijen. While it’s beautiful, it’s a one-time visit. Indonesia has it all: mountains, deserts, even glaciers. The country is incredibly diverse, and the people are warm and welcoming. If you can—travel. Every day brings new places, faces, and landscapes. Each day is unlike the last. And forget the myth—Java is not dangerous.

Sergey: If you’ve got money and a reliable motorbike, you’ll be fine. Indonesians are extremely helpful—if anything happens, you won’t be left on your own. Just carry your documents, get insurance, and hit the road.

If the police stop you, they’ll check your papers, then probably invite you for tea, take selfies, and have a chat.

Sergey: Honestly, not really. Everyone has their own pace and schedule. This is my journey, my rules. I might ride with a trusted group that I know and sync well with, but randomly assembling a team for a trip like this is a bad idea.

Sergey: In Java, to travel efficiently from one point to another, I usually start at 8 p.m. and ride until 6 a.m., then rest and continue. The roads are clearer overnight.

On other islands, daytime travel is more manageable. But Bali’s traffic is as bad as Jakarta’s—so plan accordingly.

Sergey: I wear Dainese Air gear—light but still hot. Ideally, I recommend full motorcycle armor and separate leg protection. My helmet is from Nolan, and for long trips, I suggest spending at least $300 on a quality helmet.

Sergey: It varies. Once, I covered 1,000 km in a single day—never doing that again. On average, if the terrain isn’t that scenic (like in Kalimantan), I ride 600–750 km/day.

I start at dawn, eat, and ride until sunset, stopping for drinks and breaks. On winding roads, it’s a different story—300 km max, because navigating curves day after day wears you out.

Rest depends on what’s around. I might ride for 1–3 days, then stop for 1–2 days to explore. If there’s nothing worth stopping for, I just keep going. When I ride with my wife, the trips are slower and more relaxed. Solo, it’s a different pace—I ride fast.

Sergey: My dream is a round-the-world trip. I tried to get a Carnet de Passage here, and this summer I planned to ride from Bali through Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and back.

But Indonesia requires a KITAP to get this document, which I think is just bureaucracy. It’s a barrier put up by the Indonesian Motor Association (IMI), and it’s frustrating.

Sergey: East Java is a great starting point. I even wrote a detailed 5–6 day route for a relaxed tour with all the highlights.

Sergey: You need an STNK—a rectangular document that proves vehicle registration. It must be valid.

For licenses, if you don’t have an international driver’s license, get a local one.

Sergey: Ferries operate 24/7 with intervals of less than an hour. Prices vary depending on your bike’s size—roughly 30k to 300k IDR. Key routes include:

For other crossings, check the ASDP website—but always confirm with locals too, since online info can be unreliable.

There are also long-distance ferries (1–2 days) to places like Kalimantan and Sulawesi, operated by DLU Ferry. These cost around 1 million IDR.

Sergey’s journey proves that real adventure begins when you go beyond the familiar—and the path you take can be just as rewarding as the destination itself.