Motorbiking Across Lombok and Sumbawa: Chasing Giants of the Ocean

Our adventure began late in the evening at Padang Bai port, where we met to catch the ferry to Lombok. The ferry departed at midnight, with another one scheduled two hours later. Tickets cost 180k rupiah. It’s recommended to arrive at least 40 minutes before departure, and make sure to bring your motorbike license and vehicle registration (STNK) with you.

The crossing takes around 5-6 hours. A helpful tip: ferries are usually crowded, making the trip uncomfortable, especially at night. However, if you approach a crew member near the captain's cabin and ask about a "kamar tidur" (sleeping room), you can rent a small private cabin usually reserved for the crew. This costs about 50k rupiah per person. We tried this option and managed to get a good night’s sleep.

We arrived early in the morning at Lombok’s port, unloaded our bikes, and grabbed breakfast at a nearby café. Our next stop was the breathtaking Tiu Kelep Waterfall, an even more impressive sight than Sekumpul in my opinion. After a refreshing swim, we continued our journey.

The road along the northern part of the island is stunning, winding through mountainous terrain with constant views of Mount Rinjani, Indonesia's second-highest volcano. After lunch at a restaurant offering spectacular mountain views and a quick photo session at a scenic overlook, we made our way to Kayangan, Lombok’s eastern port, where ferries depart for Sumbawa.

There are several hotels near the port catering to different budgets. We chose simple rooms for 300k rupiah per night, but it’s a good idea to book in advance to secure your spot.

The ferry ride to Sumbawa takes about two hours, with hourly departures. Tickets cost 80k, and it's important to purchase them at one of the "online ticket" booths before reaching the checkpoint.

To make the journey more enjoyable, the crew organized a lively karaoke session for passengers, adding some entertainment to the trip.

Upon arriving at Sumbawa Island’s port, we had a long road ahead to reach the departure point for the shark tours. Along the way, we stopped for lunch in Sumbawa Besar, the island’s capital, at a café with a view of the airport runway.

One of the highlights of our trip was connecting with the locals who organize the shark boat tours and manage nearby accommodations. We had arranged everything in advance with a local guide, Roberto (WhatsApp: +6285239502610), who helped us with all the logistics. I recommend contacting him about two weeks before your trip, as accommodation on the island is limited. The best option is a small beachfront hotel with a few cottages. The boats leave from a spot near the hotel, just before sunrise, to see the world’s largest fish.

This day was the highlight of our trip. We woke up early, at 5 AM, and set off by boat to the spot where whale sharks are typically found. The boat ride took just over an hour, and as it was still dark, we had the chance to marvel at the starlit sky.

As dawn broke, we arrived at the destination. Encountering these gentle giants up close was an unforgettable experience. The whale sharks moved slowly and gracefully, completely unfazed by our presence. We were so close that we could even feel their pleasantly rough skin when we brushed against them. Initially, it was a bit intimidating—especially when you see one opening its massive mouth—but soon, the awe took over. The swim lasted about 1.5 hours, and we were treated to Nutella sandwiches and local black coffee afterward.

Later that evening, we returned to Lombok via the same route, sharing stories of the day’s adventure. Instead of retracing our path along the northern route, we opted for the eastern road to explore more of Lombok. It’s the better choice, as the coastal route Google suggests is in poor condition.

We spent the night in an area called Kuta, which could be described as a more relaxed version of Bali’s Kuta—full of foreigners, yet without the traffic jams and with a much better atmosphere. Bali’s Kuta was probably like this 15 years ago.

After the long and intense travel, we were all pretty exhausted, especially those of us riding automatic bikes like the Nmax. A word of advice: I wouldn’t recommend making this trip on a Scoopy or Vario.

After the thrill of swimming with whale sharks, this was the second most anticipated day of the trip—a well-earned break after days of long rides and adventure. Some of us chose to get massages (though prices were higher than in Bali and the quality not as good, which was also true of the food at the local European-style cafés). Others spent the day exploring beaches or surfing. I decided to combine both and had an enjoyable surf session at the picturesque Tanjung Aan Beach.

We spent the day exploring the eastern side of Lombok, known for its stunning beaches and scenic vistas. Our first stop was Pink Beach, though in reality, the sand didn’t appear as pink as in the photos—it may have gradually faded or been washed away over time. Next, we visited an old lighthouse, which offered breath-taking views of the ocean and surrounding landscapes. However, the road leading to the lighthouse was quite rough, so if you're not a confident rider, you might want to skip this stop.

We finished the day by enjoying a beautiful sunset from Bukit in Lombok, not far from Kuta.

Our final day began with a farewell breakfast, followed by a peaceful stroll along the beach, where locals usually hold bull races. Unfortunately, there were no races that day, but the beach itself was stunning. After taking in the last bits of Lombok's beauty, we headed to the port to catch our ferry back to Bali.